What's so good about this blog thingy July 31 2013
In Part 2, we're going to show you each step in building your own ice chest stereo. As we discussed in part 1, there's many different uses with each requiring different features and components. The ice chest stereo we built today is a simple one, but most importantly it outlines the important steps that every ice chest radio will require.
We created these instructions to help out the do-it yourselfer; someone who has experience in building. When it comes to customizing these beyond what we show, there's going to be a lot of trial and error to get something perfect. Trust us, we've been through it. If you're still on the fence on building one yourself, consider buying one from us by checking out our catalog. We've done all the hard work for you and we keep our prices closely in line with what it would cost you to make on your own. Also, if you have something in mind that you want custom built, let us know and we can work with you.
Parts List:
- A Cooler
- Lawn Mower Battery - 12V 9.5AH
- Speakers - Pyle PLMR41W
- Amplifier - Mitzu MIT-75r 2 Channel 500W
Tools List:
- Dremel Tool w/ Circle Cutter guide attachment
- Drill w/ drill bit speedbor
- Ruler
- Screwdriver kit
- Marker
- Pliers
- Screws
Build Plans:
1. Mark out the location on the cooler face where you want to mount the speakers.
Mark where the center of each speaker would be placed and drill a small hole to serve as a guide for when we cut the holeout.
2. Cut out the holes for the speaker
We use a Dremel Circle Cutter to cut the holes. Since our speakers are 4", we set the radius to be 2". This could be different depending on the design of your speakers.
3. Mounting the speakers
Mark off the mounting holes for each speaker. Don't forget to align the mounting holes to be parrlell for each speaker so that the finished look is symetrical. Our speakers came with clip style screw locks so we instered those between the outter plastic and the foam on our cooler. Screw the speakers in place, but don't completely tighten them down until you have all for screws placed. Then go around at the end and tighten them firmly.
4. Mark location for your on/off switch.
We mounted the on/off switch on top of the lid. If you go this route, remember to keep your wires long enough to allow you to open and close the lid without being snagged. Alternatively, you can mount the switch on the inside of the cooler. If you're making a waterproof ice chest stereo, it's best to keep the switch on the outside to minimize having to open and close the lid - less chance of getting water inside and on your components.
Depending on your on/off switch, it should have 3 pins that correspond with the cables coming from your amplifier and battery.
5. Mount your amp to the inside wall.
Simple enough, just mark off your mounting holes and make sure the screws don't pierce the exterior walls. If your amp has a gain control, be sure to mount the amp with this facing upwards.
6. Wire up your speakers to your amplifier.
We prefer to use clip style connections to Positive (+) is red, Negative (-) is black.
7. Mount your battery and connect it to the amp
Mount the battery as close to the center of the ice chest as possible, otherwise it's going to be more likely to tip over. We use velcro straps with screws mounting it to the bottom. You can also use L-brackets to keep the sides in line.
Connect your amp power cables to the battery, starting with the negative side first. Use zip ties to keep all of the wires organized.
That's about all there is to it. Plug your phone in, turn it on and see how it sounds. This particular stereo sounded great and could easily be heard from across the street in our neighbors yard (don't tell them we were trespassing). Please let us know your feedback. We can and will continue to update these posts to answer any questions you may have sp feel free to email us at contact@jamchest.com with any questions.